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🐠 MyOwnFish
Crystal-Clear Fishkeeping: A Practical Guide
Welcome! This site offers original, step‑by‑step tutorials for healthy freshwater aquariums. No fluff, no scraped content—just evidence‑based guidance tested by hobbyists.
Healthy aquariums start with the nitrogen cycle, steady water parameters, and gentle stocking.
Beginner Setup: From Empty Tank to Happy Fish
10–12 min read
1) Pick the right tank size
Start with at least 75–80 liters (20 gallons) for community fish. Small tanks swing in temperature and chemistry, stressing fish. Choose a rectangular glass tank with a tight lid to prevent jumping.
2) Essentials checklist
Filter rated for 2× your tank volume (sponge + biological media)
Heater with thermostat (25–26 °C for most tropical species)
Liquid test kit (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, KH/GH if possible)
Dechlorinator (neutralizes chlorine/chloramine)
Substrate (inert sand or fine gravel) and live plants (easy: Anubias, Java fern, Vallisneria)
Timer for lights: 7–8 hours/day to limit algae
3) The nitrogen cycle (no-fish cycling)
Cycle the tank before adding fish. Feed the filter with bottled ammonia or fish food to grow bacteria that convert toxic ammonia → nitrite → nitrate. Only add fish when ammonia and nitrite are 0 ppm for a week and nitrates are <20–30 ppm.
Tip: Seed your filter with media from a healthy, disease‑free aquarium to jump‑start bacteria.
4) Stable water parameters
Temperature: 24–26 °C for most tetras, rasboras, gouramis; cooler for white cloud minnows (18–22 °C).
pH: Aim 6.8–7.4 for mixed communities; keep it stable rather than chasing an exact number.
Hardness (GH/KH): Know your tap water. Consistency beats perfection.
5) Stock slowly
Add small groups over weeks, testing after each addition. Good starters: neon tetras, harlequin rasboras, corydoras, honey gourami. Avoid mixing fin‑nippers with long‑finned species.
6) Feeding
Feed what fish consume in ~30–60 seconds, 1–2× daily. Rotate quality flakes/pellets with frozen or live foods (daphnia, brine shrimp). Overfeeding fuels algae and poor water quality.
7) Weekly care
Change 25–40% of water weekly; match temperature and dechlorinate
Gently rinse filter sponges in old tank water (never tap) to preserve bacteria
Trim plants; vacuum debris from substrate
8) Common mistakes
Adding fish before cycling finishes
Cleaning filters under tap water (kills bacteria)
Using incompatible species or overstocking
Chasing pH with chemicals instead of focusing on stability
Water Parameters That Actually Matter
Healthy aquariums are about consistency. Test weekly and record your results. If problems arise, change less at once but more often, and fix the cause (overfeeding, overstocking, lack of maintenance) rather than masking symptoms with chemicals.
Ammonia/Nitrite: Always 0 ppm.
Nitrate: Keep < 20–30 ppm via water changes and plant growth.
pH: Stable within your species’ range; sudden swings stress fish.
KH (buffer): Prevents pH crashes. If near zero, consider crushed coral in a media bag.
GH (hardness): Impacts osmoregulation; match species needs (e.g., livebearers prefer harder water).
Filtration & Cycling: Biological First
Prioritize biological filtration (sponge or media with high surface area). Mechanical floss polishes water but clogs quickly—rinse gently in tank water. Chemical media (like carbon) is optional for odors or after medication.
Quiet, fish‑friendly flow
Most community tanks do best with moderate flow that gently ripples the surface for gas exchange. Aim filter output across the surface, not directly at fish.
Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon innesi)
Peaceful schooling fish. Keep in groups of 10+. 24–26 °C, pH 6.8–7.2. Provide plants and dimmer areas.
Corydoras Catfish
Bottom-dwellers that prefer soft sand and groups of 6+. Gentle flow, frequent small feedings of sinking foods.
Honey Gourami
Shy centerpiece fish. Likes calm water with floating plants. Keep with peaceful tankmates.
FAQ
How long does cycling take?
Typically 3–6 weeks. Seeding with established media and stable temperatures shortens the timeline.
Do I need live plants?
Not required, but they improve water quality and reduce algae by competing for nutrients.
How often should I change water?
Most tanks thrive with 25–40% weekly changes. Heavily stocked tanks may need more.
About MyOwnFish
We publish original tutorials for freshwater aquariums with a focus on beginner‑friendly, evidence‑based care. No AI‑generated or copied guides—every article is researched and reviewed by an experienced aquarist.
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